Stock crack repair cracked#

This can be accomplished in a pan of warm water (watch for contaminating drips) or the use of a nearby light bulb. Warming the two components will reduce the viscosity and speed curing. Thinning or changing the mix will only degrade the result. I'm a big fan of a quality two part, slow cure epoxy. A bunch of patience here will go a long way to a successful repair. Hey there Billy Jack - Welcome to Marlin Owners. If the repaired crack is noticeable, and you just cant live with it, you can back scrape the epoxy line with a single edged razor blade, and stain to match the grain/ color, and once the stain is dry a coating of oil and wax will protect the repair.this is something that you have to 'work' with, but the results can be outstanding. Try to keep all of your work limited to the affected area, and after the epoxy is fully cured, a quick clean up and oiling or waxing will bring back the finish. Wipe off the excess epoxy with a soft rag dampened with denatured alcohol, and let the epoxy set up and cure for at least 24 hours (or, what ever the directions require). When you release the pressure on the cracks the epoxy will ooze a bit (which tells you that the cracks have been over filled with the epoxy.which is exactly what you are trying to do). Simply mix up the epoxy, and GENTLY spread the cracks a bit to work the epoxy into the cracks.

Stock crack repair cracked#

I use a high quality SLOW CURING (not the fast drying!!!) two part epoxy to repair cracked stocks.Devcon Epoxy is one and can be found at most hardware stores, etc. I always get some knowledgeable responses here to any question I have ever asked, so I am hoping for a good workable solution. Of course if I am unable to get it fixed it will just deteriorate and I'll have to restock it someday with the junk available from Remlin! However, I plan to find a good fix and move on. Tonight, sight it in with my 450gr LFN loads, and go hog hunting this weekend. I am really dissappointed it had the cracked stock, mainly because of the delay I'll have in being able to start shooting and enjoying the gun. I had looked it over many times before I noticed that the slight misfit of the wood to the receiver was 'moveable'. I am sure the previous owner who rarely used the gun never noticed it. Should the fit of the stock to the receiver be slightly relieved? What is the best glue for gluing a cracked gun stock? (Ideally something thin and watery enough to penetrate into the slightly spread open crack.)ģ. How can I get enough glue into the tight crack to do the job without just spreading the crack way open? (Some kind of injection or something?)(Something akin to a tight copper pipe joint sucking the solder into the joint as it is 'sweated in')Ģ. If I try to open it up wide enough to get enough glue into it to properly do the job, I may cause the crack to just run deeper into the stock making the situation even worse.ġ. This crack is a split that just has not yet been pushed very deep into the stock. This crack becomes noticeable by simply applying a little 'spreading' pressure to the stock as you see in the photos.

This crack goes all the way through the narrow part of the stock top to bottom. The left side, however, is a deep hairline crack going down into the stock a short ways. There is plenty of room to fill it with glue. The right side where the chunk has split off and is just hanging on should be no problen to glue and clamp together and make it work fine. However, if I shoot it and it gets worse it could become difficult to fix and be an eyesore. The way it is now, if I can get it glued back together and possibly relieve a couple of pressure points that probably caused the cracks, then it will work great and not even be noticable. I am upset that I won't be able to shoot the gun until I fix the stock. (The small piece of broken wood is possibly the pressure point where the recoil wasĬoncentrated into the stock causing the whole problem….I'm guessing). I removed the tang screw and took the rear stock off and what I found was a couple of cracks. I also noticed a very tiny piece of wood broken off on the lower left side of the stock where the wood meets the metal receiver. I figured that maybe it was just a little warped and that I might be able to steam it and bend it a little to make it stay down and have that perfect Marlin fit. However, when I pushed on it a little it flushed up perfectly against the receiver. When I started disassembling it for cleaning and detailed inspection I noticed that one side of the rear stock didn't fit perfectly to the receiver, which was not a really big deal. This is an older JM stamped model with the factory ported barrel. I just brought home my new Marlin Guide Gun today.